What
Dubai is, is rich.
And adaptable. And cosmopolitan. And international. And
a heck of great place to shop.
Although folks have been living hereabouts for five thousand
years, it's only in the last thirty that Dubai has seen
the phenomenal growth evidenced by the futuristic skyscrapers
the visitor sees everywhere. It was (what else) oil, and
the withdrawal of the British, both occurring about the
same time, which gave Dubai the wealth and independence
to create the lifestyle it enjoys today. And what a lifestyle:
in a desert, there are more golf courses than the rest
of the Arabian Peninsula. And the green lawn at Jumeira
Beach Park costs a mint of money to maintain, but the
city does it proudly.
Before oil, the raison d'etre of Dubai was pearls, dived
for hereabouts, which was replaced by the import-export
trade in gold after the introduction of cultivated pearls.
(Hence the name "City of Gold", and hence the
opportunity to score a great deal on some gold trinket
or other.) In fact, you might say the whole city is one
great big Oriental bazaar. The four main souks, or marketplaces,
are the places to go but make sure your bargaining skills
aren't too rusty. Bargaining is expected, and is part
of the experience.
There is, of course, the Gold Souk, with its intricate
wooden lattice archway and windows filled with glittering
gold, which attracts buyers from throughout the world.
Any type of gold jewelry, in any color the craftspeople
can coax from the metal, can be yours for a price. The
Perfume Souk, right next door (just follow your nose),
offers European designer fragrances, cleverly named knockoffs
and strong, spicy Arabic scents. The Deira Covered Souq
feels more of Indian than Arabic, with textiles, spices,
kitchen wares, clothes and henna being hawked. The Spice
Souq, also known as the Deira Old Souq (it's not just
for spices anymore), sells all sorts of trinkets, clothing,
rugs and glassware. The overflowing bags of seasonings
are concentrated at the eastern end, closest to Dubai
Creek. You can't miss it.
There is also an Electronics Souk (what would the ancient
caravanners think?), and that's the place to go for that
extra special boom box you've always wanted. Dealers from
all over the world buy here, for resale in other, more
expensive, markets. There are also covered malls, where
European chains make their stand, and where the experience,
while not so authentic, is perhaps less stressful.
In keeping with the traditional nature of these sights,
the Shaikh Saeed al-Maktoum House, a thirty-room mansion,
was made traditionally with coral quarried in the Gulf,
and a wind tower. It's being restored to its original
glory, and houses a photo exhibit that shows the tremendous
growth the city has undergone, from being a sleepy pearling
town to the world-class metropolis it is today. Next door,
the Heritage and Diving Villages have displays on pearl
diving and dhow building, two of old Dubai's economic
mainstays. Another area recreates traditional Bedouin
and coastal village life, complete with barasti (Persian)
homes, a traditional coffeehouse and a small souq where
you can buy freshly made dosa (a flat, grilled bread).
A museum with items from nearby archaeological sites is
also interesting.
Being the interface between the ocean and desert, you
might expect that Dubai would offer the visitor a chance
to see some nifty part of either, and you'd be right.
Every imaginable water sport can be indulged in, including
jet-skiing, water skiing, SCUBA diving, snorkeling, and
deep-sea fishing. For the dry side, a desert safari, complete
with camels, a barbecue dinner and even a belly dancer
for entertainment may be just the thing. There's go-carting
and 4WD desert driving, as well, if you need something
speedier than a camel.
Although only about a quarter of the population is Emirati,
it's important never to forget you are in a strict Muslim
country, which means no shaking hands with women, or taking
people's pictures without permission. Never offer the
left hand, and if you're there during Ramadan, the Muslim
month of fasting and penitence, it's actually illegal
to smoke, drink, or eat in public. Be careful and be considerate.
So when Dubai recedes after you've sailed, wave goodbye
with your newly-bangled arm full of gold, and be grateful
you had the opportunity to see such a remarkable confluence
of culture and capitalism.
POPULATION About 400,000. PORT Dubai Harbor. The harbor is also a commercial center.
CLIMATE Hot and Dry! LANGUAGE Arabic. French and English are often spoken within
commercial and business environments CURRENCY Emirian dirham.
Monday to Friday 9:00-22:00, Saturday 10:00-16:00,
Sunday 11:00-16:00
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